Understanding Error Codes | Sapphire Spas (2024)

Usually if your spa is in an error state it will display on the touchpad.

If the touchpad is blank, all SpaNET controllers have a red flashing heartbeat LED on the brain PCB to indicate the status of the controller. When the controller is functioning correctly with no errors to report, the heartbeat LED emits a single flash in a constant pulse much like a heartbeat (ON, OFF, ON, OFF). When in an error state the LED will begin flashing in sequence with the error code number being experienced (ie. ER2 = ON,ON; OFF ON,ON; OFF).

ER-2 – Heater Sensor

Regardless of whether you have an SV or SV Mini controller, ER-2 indicates your spas temperature sensor has been damaged and will require replacement. If your water temperature displays as 99.70 this is interchangeable with an ER-2.

There is a small chance the error has displayed due to data corruption. To overcome this, turn mains power OFF, wait 5 minutes then restart the spa. If the error persists, engage a local spa technician to perform the repair.

ER-3 – Water Prime

ER-3 means the water prime has failed & the optical sensor is detecting air in the heater tube. This is usually due to air in the lines & poor water circulation. There are several ways to overcome this issue.

• Press the pump A button to try and reprime the circulation pump.
• Check the spa water level & refill if necessary.
• Run the spa without the filter cartridges momentarily which should improve water flow. Replace filters if they’re dirty.
• Flush water down skimmer box with a hose
• Bleed airlock from pipe work by slightly loosening couplings on the front of the circulation pump.

If water flow is adequate during the priming cycle, the sensor that’s reporting the air lock could be damaged. engage a local spa technician to perform the repair.

ER-4 – Thermal Trip

An ER-4 indicates the heater has engaged, then exceeded 45 degrees Celsius & the thermal cut-out has gone open circuit. This is due to insufficient water flow through the heater tube.

Note: The thermal cut-out will only close its circuit once the heater temp drops below 45 degrees. During troubleshooting you’ll need to leave the heater to cool down for 10 mins before trying to clear the error.

Firstly, check all symptoms relating to air locks & poor water flow.

• Press the pump A button to try and reprime the circulation pump.
• Check the spa water level & refill if necessary.
• Run the spa without the filter cartridges momentarily which should improve water flow. Replace filters if they’re dirty.
• Flush water down skimmer box with a hose
• Bleed airlock from pipe work by slightly loosening couplings on the front of the circulation pump.

Ultimately, when you first turn power on to the spa, it should run through its priming cycle & the word ‘Priming’ should scroll on the screen. During this it’s important to check if the circulation pump is turning on & pushing water. If the pump isn’t turning on at all, we need to investigate why. If the circulation pump has failed, your SpaNET controller will display an ER-4.

Open the spa cabinet and firstly identify which SpaNET controller your spa is fitted with, and which pump is responsible for the circulation during heating & filtering.

SV Series controller with a Single speed Circulation pump (eg. XS3C or SC05)

If you have an SV Series controller with a Single speed Circulation pump, you can test the pump independently by plugging it into the 230v socket. Firstly, turn power off to the spa, remove the pump lead from the socket labelled ‘Circ’, then plug it into the socket labelled ‘230v’. The ‘230v’ socket has no relay or software governing it, it just supplies a constant 230 volts. If the pump still doesn’t engage, replace the pump.

If the pump does engage, this should momentarily clear the ER-4 & allow us to check controller software settings. Check the [TYPE setting] is set to match the controller as this impacts pump configuration.

If the Pump shaft spins yet no water moves, check the impeller & wet end for debris.

If the pump engages yet doesn’t clear the ER-4 have a technician check the Klixon.

SV Mini controller with a Single speed Circulation pump (eg. XS3C or SC05)

Any time you have a persistent ER-4 with a Mini controller, you must check that the heater sensor cable has been routed correctly. Refer to [SV Mini ER4 due to connection issue]

To check controller settings, you must press the pump A button to toggle it to OFF as soon as you see a temperature reading on the display. This will disengage the heater prior to overheating, allowing you to check the [TYPE setting]. Ensure it’s set to match the controller as this will impact pump configuration.

If the Pump shaft spins yet no water moves, check the impeller & wet end for debris.

If the pump engages yet doesn’t clear the ER-4 have a technician check the Klixon.

If you have voltage at the pump socket [test socket output with Multimeters] & the pump never engages, replace the pump.

SV or SV Mini controller with a 2-speed pump (eg. XS30-2S or SB30-2S)

Ensure DIP switch 2 is set ON

To check controller settings, you must press the pump A button to toggle it to OFF as soon as you see a temperature reading on the display. This will disengage the heater prior to overheating, allowing you to check the [TYPE setting]. Ensure it’s set to match the controller as this will impact pump configuration.

If the Pump shaft spins yet no water moves, check the impeller & wet end for debris.

If the pump engages yet doesn’t clear the ER-4 have a technician check the Klixon.

If you have voltage at the pump socket [test socket output with Multimeters] & the pump never engages, replace the pump.

SV Series controller with a Vari speed drive

Ensure DIP switch 2 is set ON

To check controller settings, you must press the pump A button to toggle it to OFF as soon as you see a temperature reading on the display. This will disengage the heater prior to overheating, allowing you to check the [V.PMP setting] Ensure it’s set to ON or ENABLED

If the Pump shaft spins yet no water moves, check the impeller & wet end for debris.

Check the Vari Drive has been wired correctly [Variable Speed Drive Wiring v2] & the Drive’s LCD screen displays ‘rdy’. If wired correctly & the LCD on the Schnieder drive never illuminates, replace the Vari Drive Vari drive

Note: It’s important to purchase a replacement Vari speed Schnieder drive directly from SpaNET to ensure its loaded with our unique software to work with our Vari speed pumps.

ER-5 – Pool Too Hot

ER-5 means the spa temperature sensor has reported a water temperature above 45 degrees.

If the water has in fact got too hot, its most likely due to excessive pump run time. We recommend checking your Filtration run time has been set for too long

Then check the [TYPE setting] is set to match the controller as this impacts pump configuration.

Using the pump buttons on your keypad, ensure you can turn each jet ON & OFF. If a Pump is stuck on you might have a latched relay.

If you have a swim spa with two touchpads, check the extension cable for the far side touchpad doesn’t have signs of water ingress at the cable join.

Then check all symptoms relating to air locks & poor water flow. As the sensor next to the heater element, with poor water flow the water in the heater tube could be getting hot.

• Press the pump A button to try and reprime the circulation pump.
  Check the spa water level & refill if necessary.
• Run the spa without the filter cartridges momentarily which should improve water flow. Replace filters if they’re dirty.
• Flush water down skimmer box with a hose
• Bleed airlock from pipe work by slightly loosening couplings on the front of the circulation pump.

If all else fails, you’ll need to replace your temperature sensor.

ER-6 12v Overload

An ER-6 means there’s a faulty appliance plugged into the 12v Brain PCB. The most common cause is a faulty light. However, can be a waterlogged SmartLINK module or damaged Heat pump data cable. This can usually be fixed by unplugging the faulty product, however, the short on the faulty product can be bad enough to permanently damage the brain PCB.

Firstly, unplug all 12v appliances other than the touchpad, to see if the ER-6 clears. If so, one by one plug your appliances back in until the error reoccurs, this should help you identify which product is causing the issue.

If you unplug all 12v appliances from the brain PCB & the ER-6 is still present, replace the Brain PCB online store. You will still need to check & replace the faulty appliance to avoid damaging the new brain PCB.

ER-7 – Pool Sensor

ER-7 means your In-pool temperature sensor has been damaged. In-Pool Temperature sensors are now obsolete and no longer needed to run your spa. If you have one fitted, simply unplug it from the IPTS socket on your controller.

If you don’t have an In-Pool temperature sensor fitted check the IPTS socket on your controller for signs of corrosion. If signs of corrosion are present, turn the spa off and use contact cleaner to clean the pins on the socket. If the ER-7 persists after cleaning, replace the 12v Brain PCB.

ER-8 – CTRL FAULT HVS

ER-8 will only appear on older XS Series controllers or SV Version 1 controllers. In each case it means the heater relay has failed. Both XS & SV Version 1 spare parts are obsolete. In both cases you’ll need to replace the control system.